Creating and maintaining blonde hair is not as simple as you may think. The Blonding process can sometimes feel like more of a science project than a beauty service. Hair color can range from Level 1 for Black Hair to Level 10 Blonde. If your hair is dark and bleach is applied, the first thing that is exposed is the underlying pigment which can look like rust, or orange or brass then finally if it’s left on the right amount of time, you can get that perfect pale color of butter in a few hours or less. Let’s break down the Blonding process.
Once you get to the salon, plan on setting aside at least a few hours. If you have virgin (uncolored) hair, it's always easier to go from brunette to blonde. Virgin hair doesn't have any barriers of artificial color and is much easier to lift. Hair will usually lift evenly if bleach is mixed (measure, don't guess!) and applied and incubated correctly. If the hair has had permanent color previously applied, you're in for a bumpy ride. Permanant color doesn't lift easily and I always recommend a strand test to see what the hair will do. Be prepared, you need to have a very experienced Blonde Specialist, a plan, patience, multiple appointments and money to get that previous permanent color to lift leaving the hair healthy, strong and ultimately Blonde.
Why Hair Turns Brassy When It Is Lifted
When hair is bleached, the melanin in your hair gets diluted, which is also called oxidation. In addition to removing your existing color, the dye also deposits color. Usually, the chemical process will create the color that you want. But with time, your hair might start to look brassy.
Hair dye is made of three different pigment colors, red, blue, and yellow. The blue-colored molecules usually fade faster, leaving the yellow and red colors to show through. Together, these colors create an orange hue.
Using Toner To Combat Brassy Coloration
Hair color professionals get asked by clients if toner can be used instead of bleach to get the desired color results. Color doesn't lift color, the only thing that will make hair lighter is bleach. Toning hair works well when it's done right. For example, if your hair has been lifted to a level 5 (Dark Brown with exposed orange underlying pigment) applying a level 9 toner to combat warmth or in this case, orange, Level 9 toner won't do anything to help. You need to be toned at a level 5 with appropriate blue color pigments to counter act the warmth. You have to know what level you've been lifted to, then tone at that level.
Natural And Colored Blonde Hair Can Turn Brassy From Minerals
Sometimes, blonde hair can turn brassy due to the minerals in your water. Copper is the worst culprit! If you notice that your blonde hair has become brassy over time, it could be due to certain types of minerals in your water that affect the color of your hair. After spending money and time perfecting your blonde, the last thing you want is to turn yellow. Heat is not your friend either, if you're a blonde. Heat from styling tools, UV rays from the sun, and hot water are all things that can make your hair turn yellow or brassy. Consider using a heat protectant regularly, installing a water filter on your showerhead and shampooing with a clarifying treatment or a product that removes minerals.
Consult Your Hair Care Professional For The Best Advice
Nothing is more frustrating than watching your fabulous blonde hair turn brassy right before your eyes. To keep your blonde hair bright, consult your hair care professional for the best advice for products you can use to maintain its color. Once you understand what is causing the color to change, you can make the necessary adjustments to keep your blonde beautiful.